Engine mount swap guide

Gearbox mount

You’ll need 10mm, 13mm and 18mm sockets.

Start by removing the battery from it’s cradle, usually retained by one 10mm bolt and bracket on the front. Remove the battery tray by undoing each of the 10mm bolts. Pull out the battery tray which will reveal the engine mount.

The next step is important – jack up the gearbox from underneath with a piece of wood to cushion the jack. Make sure the jack is taking the weight of the ‘box. Now to remove the mount, loosen off the two 13mm bolts and carefully remove the 18mm bolt in the centre. If you’ve jacked it up correctly removing the bolt will leave the gearbox will remain static revealing the stud. If the gearbox drops a little, don’t panic, just jack it up a little further.

Take the new mount and swap over the metal shank from the old mount.

Refitting is the reverse of removal. Don’t overtighten the bolts. Carefully lower the jack to ensure the new mount is taking the weight correctly.

Lower mount

Jack up the car and use axle stands to ensure you can work beneath the car safely. Place a jack under the sump with a piece of wood to protect the engine, and ensure the jack is taking the engines weight. Undo the 16mm nut on the old mount and retract the bolt. If you can’t retract the bolt due to the exhaust manifold, leave it there for now. Reach up and undo the 18mm bolt at the top of the mount. A ratchet spanner is useful for this. Now undo the lower 18mm bolt. You should now be able to retract the mount without the engine moving (the jack should be taking the weight).

In true Haynes manual style, refitting is the reversal of removal.

Top mount

Remove the plastic ECU cover on the offside of the engine bay. Undo the three 8mm bolts holding in the ECU plate. Undo the three or four 8mm ECU bolts. Retract the ECU and folt it out of the way for now. Remove the metal ECU plate and place aside. The mount should now be exposed. Remove the two 13mm bolts and retract the orange mount. The engine bracket will now be visible.

Now the tricky part, jack up the engine from underneath so the engine is fully supported by the jack.There are five Torx 50 bolts that hold the metal bracket to the engine and two13mm bolts holding the engine mount to the chassis. Undo all of these bolts and with a bit of fiddling you should be able to remove the mount in situe.

Now undo the Torx bolt underneath which attached the engine mount to the metal bracket. Place the new buffer onto the mount and tighten the bolt.

Follow the steps in reverse and replace the mount,  ECU and remove the jack.

Job done! Take it for a test drive to ensure all is ok. Driveline shunt should now be less pronounced when you get on and off the throttle. Vibrations in the cabin should also be less prominent.

DISCLAIMER: I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury caused by following this guide. It is your responsibility to ensure you take steps to work safely and employ common sense.

 

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